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A La Minute Update: Northern Virginia Magazine’s Grill Warren Thursdays at 11a.m.

grill-warren.gifWarren Rojas, food writer for Northern Virginia magazine, announced today on Don Rockwell that he will be hosting a weekly food and dining chat Thursday mornings at 11 a.m. The newly upgraded magazine website boasts an expanded Food and Wine section with restaurant archives and reviews, preview menus and feedback forums.

We are very fortunate to have a variety of food critic voices in the D.C. area. I’m looking forward to the addition of Warren’s reviews and opinions, telling the good, bad and ugly. Let’s get grilling on Thursdays!

Turnips- Oh Those Greens!

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Last week at the Dupont Farmers Market I came across these gorgeous fresh Hakurei turnips at Next Step Produce. Part of the Brassicaceae family, they are cousins to broccoli, rutabega, brussel sprouts, cauliflower and cabbage. Hakurei are particularly sweet and can be used raw in salads or cooked. They cook very quickly in fact. The taste is a cross between cucumber and apple  

Turnips have a variety of uses, from raw in salads and sandwiches to stir fried, boiled, baked in a gratin and paired with potatoes for mashed poatoes and turnips. The French have been pairing turnips with spring lamb in a stew called Navarin a la Printaniere, and Esscoffier made navets farcis, or stuffed turnips braised in cider. This oft thought tough and bitter root vegetable has had a loyal following, from Greek gourmets to the Romans who served them in 16 different colors in one dish!

Turnips are a nutritional powerhouse. They are high in fiber, B6, folate, calcium, potassium and copper. With this bunch of turnips I made a yukon gold potato gratin. When cooked, the turnips become somewhat translucent and milky in color and they are extremely tender.
While the gratin was wonderful, the best part was the leaves. I braised the leaves with a bit of the stems and was wowed by their flavor. The taste is much like broccoli rabe leaves and mustard greens. A bit smoother with less of a bite, however. So if you treat yourself to fresh turnips with the greens, take a couple minutes to do this simple braise.

Braised Turnip Greens

Wash turnip leaves and cut the stem about 3 inches below the leaves. Dry leaves. In a pan, heat 1 Tbsp. of extra virgin olive oil. Crush one garlic clove and add to pan. Add greens and a pinch of salt and pepper. Sautee until the greens wilt a bit. Add 1/3 cup of chicken stock and cover. Allow greens to simmer for 3-5 minutes. You want to retain a bit of crunch and texture. With tongs, remove greens from braising liquid and transfer to bowl. Discard garlic clove. Serve immediately.

A La Minute Update: Northern Virginia Magazine 25 Best Restaurants

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I get Northern Virginia magazine (I have no idea how or why) and the December issue features the 25 best restaurants. Apparently it’s the first time they’ve ranked the restaurants in the region. It salutes the “fresh faces” such as Bazin’s on Church and The Majestic, and laments the “dearly departed” including Oyamel and Colving Run Tavern.

Washington chefs who have crossed the Potomac (eek!) are embraced for breathing freshness into our dining scene. Chefs like Tony Chittum of Vermillion feels that Northern Virginians are adventurous eaters- willing to eat whatever he puts on the menu. Chef Roberto Donna of Bebo likes the fact that Virginia allows you to make your own charcuterie, and Chef Jamie Leeds of Hanks Oyster Bar in Old Town thinks that Virginia is more family oriented.

Among the restaurants included are Eve, Willow, The Majestic, Ray’s the Steaks and Eleventh Street Lounge. So, if you’d like to have a nice reference for NoVa restaurants to put on your “to eat at” list, grab the December issue at your newsstand.

Golabki- Polish Stuffed Cabbage*

small-golabki2.jpgStuffed cabbage is a dish associated with Eastern European and Asian cultures. It usually consists of cabbage leaves stuffed with a mixture of meat and grains, such as rice. Growing up in a Polish household, we called these golabki (little pigeons) pronounced ga-WOOM-key. Green leaf cabbage is stuffed with ground meat, either beef or a mixture of beef/pork/veal, and cooked with white rice which is seasoned with salt and pepper. The tomato based sauce can include tomato juice, sauce, puree, soup or even ketchup.

I have always loved golabki, even though as a kid I would peel the cabbage off and shove it to the side, hoping no one would notice (my Nana did). Now I embrace the cabbage and enjoy it as much as I do the meat filling.

Over the years since I have taken over making this dish for my family, my recipe has evolved as a mingling of me, my mom and Martha Stewart.

Unlike my mother and most other people,hey,mheyI do not cut the rib/vein out of the cabbage because I feel I can roll a perfect golabki with the cabbage leaf intact. To make sure that the cabbage, even the rib is tender, I braise the golabki low and slow.

My mother always used a combination of condensed tomato soup and ketchup for the sauce. I have tried changing this up with tomato puree and tomato juice etc. but I’ve decided the flavor of the original sauce suits me the best and is most evocative of my childhood memories of this dish. By the time the dish braises in the oven, the sauce tastes of the meat, vegetables and cabbage. It’s sum is more than the parts, so to speak.

Martha Stewart uses her mother’s recipe for stuffed cabbage. Being Polish, Mrs. Koystyra’s recipe closely resembles my grandmothers, except it has more flavor in the meat, with onion, garlic and green peppers.

Thanks to all of my influenes in developing this dish, I’ve come up with  my favorite version of stuffed cabbage. I hope you enjoy it too.

Ingredients;

1 can condensed tomato soup

1/2 cup ketchup

1 large head green cabbage

1 1/2 lbs. ground beef or meatloaf mix- ground beef, pork and veal

1 medium onion, fine diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 medium green bell pepper, chopped in food processor or grated

1 cup white rice, cooked

2 eggs

salt and pepper to taste

2-3 strips uncooked bacon

Directions:

For the cabbage

small-golabki-cabbage.jpgCore cabbage and place head in gently boiling water. Using tongs, remove leaves gently as they become loose and start to give. Transfer to collander to drain.

For the filling

Cook rice according to package directions. In pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onions, garlic and green bell pepper to pan. Sautee until softened but do not brown. Transfer to bowl to cool.

In a separate bowl, add meat mixture. Add eggs, rice and cooled vegetables. Add salt and pepper to taste. Gently combine but do not over work the meat. In a small heated pan, cook a small patty of the meat mixture and taste for seasoning. This step is very important as you will not be able to adjust the seasoning of the filling once it is stuffed in the cabbage.

small-golabki-rolls-in-pan.jpgOnce you are satisfied with the seasoning, you are ready to assemble. First, spread a small amount of tomatoe soup in the bottom of a baking pan. Take a cabbage leaf and place a small handfull of the meat mixture at the base of the leaf. Roll like a fajita and place cabbage roll seam down in the pan. Repeat until you have rolled all of your meat mix.

small-golabki-cooked.jpgSpread the remaining tomato soup evenly over the top of the cabbage rolls, followed by the ketchup. Add 2-3 strips of uncooked bacon over top of rolls (optional). Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake in on the middle rack of  a preheated 300 degree oven. Braise for 2 1/2-3 hours, basting the rolls with the sauce occasionally.

Remove from oven and allow cabbage rolls to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

*This recipe has been entered into Habeas Brulee’s food blogging event “A Recipe From The Crease Of My Right Eye”

At The Dupont Farmers Market- The Colors Of Cauliflower

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 Sunday morning’s early clouds gave way to sunshine as we arrived at the Dupont Farmers Market. The market was crowded early with many patrons looking to get just the right size and type of turkey for Thanksgiving from vendors such as Cibola Farms and Eco-Friendly Farms. In fact, all of the stalls seemed stacked with the freshest and most colorful produce one coud imagine. Perhaps it’s indicitive of the season in of itself, when we are as a nation are preparing to celebrate abundance.
small-barton-seaver-at-dupont.jpgWhat particularly caught my eye (Besides Chef Baron Seaver of Hook restaurant in Georgetown, being followed by a camera crew) were the many different types of cauliflower available. Besides larger than life heads of traditional white cauliflower, I spied stunning purple and orange cauliflower, as well as Romanesco cauliflower, which is green and conically shaped.
Cauliflower is the same species as kale, broccoli, cabbage and collard greens. Some of these vegetables are grown to eat the florets and others are grown to eat the leaves. Cauliflower leaves are cabbage-like but I have yet to utilize them raw or cooked.
Cauliflower tolerates and even thrives in cool climates but unlike kale, it can be ruined by hard frost.
Purple cauliflower gets its’ color from anthocyanin, an antioxident which protects the cauliflower from free radical UV damage. This protective property is transfered to the organism which consumes the cauliflower, making this beautifully colored vegetable a nutritional powerhouse. Anthocynin is also found in berries, dark legumes and red cabbage. Oh, and red wine too. When cooking, avoid going past “al dente” and add a bit of acid (lemon juice, for example) to the water when blanching it to retain the vibrant color.
Orange cauliflower contains large amounts of vitamin A and beta-carotine. It is a mutation of white cauliflower found growing in a field in Canada neary 40 years ago. It’s taste is milder than white cauliflower.
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Romanesco cauliflower is a visually stunning light green vegetable which looks like a cross between cauliflower and broccoli. Full of phytonutrients, Romanesco is also milder and sweeter than white cauliflower and is available September through November.

Many people roast caulifower in the oven and use it in place of starches such as mashed potatoes and french fries. If you’ve never tried it, I bet you would be amazed at the change if flavor and texture. It truly satisfies like a carb. I place florets on a foil lined pan, sprinkle with olive oil, salt and pepper and toss to coat. The cauliflower gets placed in a 375 degree oven for about 45 minutes or until brown. You won’t believe what you smell as it cooks.

Enjoy, and support your local markets!