The Houndstooth Gourmet

 

When I plan a trip to my hometown of Philadelphia, I try to be in Center City on Sunday morning to hit the Headhouse Square Farmers Market. In season, the dog-friendly market runs from 10am-2pm, and offers a wide array of local produce in addition to a plethora of artisanal products. Cheeses, chocolates, breads and pastries, honey, maple syrup, doggie treats and fresh flowers are among the many delights to be had at the market.

The Headhouse market is run by The Food Trust, an organization whose mission is to provide access to healthy food for everyone. TFT also advocates for children and adults by affecting public health policies. One of the most impressive efforts that TFT drives is called The Kindergarten Initiative-an early intervention program that provides in the classroom education as well as healthy fruit and vegetable snacks from local farms.

New to the market this year are two food vendors. Not that generous, free samples are not a good thing-it’s great, but sometimes perusing from stall to stall works up a real appetite!

 Sweet Lucy’s is a terrific BBQ  joint located in an old warehouse space in Northeast Philadelphia-about a 20 minute drive from Center City and easily accessible from I-95. Los Taquitos de Puebla sells tacos al pastor and quesadillas, and the former is what Frank and I opted for.

Three grill-marked, soft tacos are topped with spit-roasted pork, pineapple, fresh salsa verde and cilantro made for a perfect $7 brunch. It was quite entertaining to watch the pineapple on top of the spit get sliced and fly right into the tacos! It would be great if the DC area markets offered food vendors like this- I believe it would be great to cross-promote locate eateries with local food.

So, what did I buy? Busy Bee Farm lavender honey from Tabernacle, NJ-I love to add this honey to chai tea and fage. Grade B maple syrup from Spring Mill Farm in Dalton, PA is perfect for topping pancakes.

 Hillacres Pride’s hickory-smoked cheddar had just the right amount of smoky flavor-this will go on salads and of course be just eaten out of hand. The family-owned farm raises Jersey cows, and milks them twice daily to make their Colby, Cheddar, Mozzarella, Ricotta and Fromage.

Oh how I wish I could have bought more! If you go, be sure to visit Blooming Glen Farm’s stand (pictured in the above collage). This stand reminds me of Next Step Produce at the Dupont market. They grow vibrant, chemical-free produce that would make a 4-year old eat their spinach. Wild Flour Bakery supplies many area eateries, and makes breads and pastries that would make even the most vociferous Atkin’s dieter pray at the carbohydrate alter.

John and Kira’s artisan chocolates (pictured above) give new meaning to the notion that we eat first with our eyes. I wouldn’t know whether to hang their boxes of chocolate on my wall, or eat them! John and Kira started their socially-conscious company in 2001. They source their fresh ingredients locally, and give back to the community by supporting programs such as an urban school garden in West Philadlephia. Supporting a business that gives back to the community is just one more reason to eat chocolate-it’s almost guilt-free!

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All in all it was a gorgeous morning spent at a lovely market that provides city-access to some of the freshest produce, baked goods and artisinal and farm products from the Pennsylvania and Southern NJ regions. If you find yourself in the area on a Sunday morning, be sure to check out this market, and of course, until the next At The Market, eat and buy local when you can.

 

he Food Trust, a nonprofit founded in

 1992,

strives to make healthy food available to all.

Working with neighborhoods, schools, grocers,

farmers and policymakers, we’ve developed

a comprehensive approach that combines

nutrition education and greater availability of

affordable, healthy food.

 

 

Tags: Philadelphia, farmers markets by Ramona
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Well, you know that farmers market fans like me need a market fix-preferably on a weekly basis. So it’s no wonder that I sought out the Headhouse Square Farmers Market while I’m in Philadelphia. I was so excited, and filled with anticipation as I saw the bustling market and felt the energy within. Much like the Dupont market in Washington, D.C., the Headhouse Square market brings the best farm fresh food from the surrounding areas (of PA and Southern NJ )to the heart of the city. On Sundays during market season, historic Headhouse Square is filled with baked goods, meats, eggs, cheese, seasonal produce, jams, jellies and honey. Oh, and dog biscuits too!

The Headhouse Square market is run by The Food Trust, which runs 30 markets in total. The Food Trust is a community-driven entity, educating patrons on nutrition and food that is in season, and wholesome. They advocate to make the market accessible to all by participating in programs such as WIC and accepting EBT cards and Senior Citizen’ cards. Their mission is to ensure that everyone has access to affordable, nutritious food-and it shows. Just check out these Farmers Rock items they sell!

Here’s just a sample of the amazing bounty at the market….

Hillacres Pride raises free range chickens that are fed organic chicken feed, in addition to the insects and grubs which they scratch for. I bought a dozen brown eggs for $4.

Weaver’s Way Farm, and urban farm, had an array of just-picked produce and herbs. I bought fresh rosemary, a handful of sunchokes and a couple of leeks, all for about $4. The rosemary and leeks flavored a baked chicken that I was compelled to make after eating processed foods for a week. Yuck.

Yum.

This guy from Versailles Bakery (Collingswood, NJ) just had to get into the photo of these marvelous sticky buns. Take another look…

Versailles’ sticky buns were a terrific bargain at $1.50 each. They were surprisingly light, and very fresh. The best part perhaps was the crunchy caramel that lined the wax paper underneath. We also enjoyed savory flatbreads; spinach and cheese, and broccoli and cheese. The dough was flaky and rich and I picked up every little piece that broke away! Here is a sample of their foccacia:

and pain au chocolates:

If this hasn’t made your mouth water yet, check out this tray of pastries from Wild Flour Bakery:

Wild Flour Bakery was started by Nishon Yaghoobian, former Executive Pastry Chef at Philadelphia’s venerable Striped Bass restaurant. Since participating at the Headhouse Farmers Market in the Spring of 2007, his business has met with an overwhelming response by customers who buy the baked goods that are made from the best quality ingredients.

I’ve become a fan of these little challah slider rolls. They have a beautiful shiny crust, and are light as a feather inside. A bit of Pate de Campagne from Tallulah’s Table made a nice snack.

Tallulah’s Table in Kennett Square PA offers among other things, housemade charcuterie, duck rillets and Pate de Campagne. From thier website:

We use superior ingredients. As a rule we use organic poultry, local dairy products, Belgian chocolate, King Arthur organic flours, daily fresh fish, carefully selected Hausbrandt Italian coffee, beautiful produce, and of perfect Kennett mushrooms. We make and smoke our own sausage and fish and
We consciously provide many vegetarian items. We bake all of our own breads and pastries. We select and age cheese that is well worth the indulgence.

Located outside of Philadelphia in Chester County, PA, Birchrun Hills Farm is owned and operated by Ken and Sue Miller. Their Holstein cows are raised without hormones, and provide the raw milk for the cheese that is made at the farm. Birchrun features Birchrun Blue and Highland Alpine cheeses.

Spring Hills Farm in Dalton, PA, is nestled in the rolling hills of Northeastern, PA and is a working family and organic farm. Their crop of award winning maple syrup is harvested each Spring. The trees are tapped in the spring because nightly temperatures are below zero, while daytime temperatures rise enough to get the sap flowing. A lovely woman at the farm stand explained the difference between Grade A and grade B maple syrup. The former is produced in the beginning of the season and has a paler color and milder flavor. The latter is produced late in the season, and has a deeper color and more pronounced maple flavor. It is often called for in cooking and baking.

There’s a lot more to this wonderful market. I’ll share more vendors and food later and suffice to say, this market is well worth seeking out if you are in the Philadelphia region. And as always, until the next At The Market, eat and buy local when you can. Wherever you are.

Tags: travel, Philadelphia, farmers markets by Ramona
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Well ok–I’ll admit something simply not shocking, I didn’t come up in life a foodie or a homespun gourmet. I wasn’t hanging on to anyone’s apron, peering up to see how the stuffed cabbage was made (is anyone else out there jealous of all of those tv food show hosts that brag about cooking meatballs with Grandma when they were like 2 years old? Or have recipes passed down from every double X chromosome family member since Eisenhower was in office?). Growing up, I did my fair share of swishing food around my plate to make it look like I’d eaten more than I had (What, eat? But…but…it’s still light out! Must…be…out..playing!). I was masterful at pushing vegetables over the side of the dish where I knew no one would see. I tried vegetables if only to appease my mom (fried tomatoes come to mind and now I adore them) but lo and behold, here I am; someone who loves to cook, bake and appreciates slow food that is grown as naturally and locally as possible.

I suppose my first experience eating “locally” and “sustainably” and “for a social cause” came over a decade ago when I worked at the University of Pennsylvania.  I frequented The White Dog Cafe on Sansom street which was a short walk from the hospital, and happened to be a very popular spot among those who lived and worked in University City. The owner, Judy Wicks (whose accomplishments and awards are enumerated here), was on a mission that was unknown to me at the time. She wanted her restaurant to support local purveyors using organic and sustainable farming practices, and moreover, benefit her employees and people all around the world.

That’s called having a lot on your plate.

From The White Dog Cafe’s website:

The Cafe sources all produce in season from local organic family farms. All meat and poultry is humanely raised, and fish and seafood are sourced from sustainable fisheries. One hundred percent of electricity is purchased from wind power sources, the first business in Pennsylvania to do so.  Entry-level employees make a minimum “living wage” of $9/hour.  Twenty percent of profits are contributed to White Dog Community Enterprises and other non-profits.  Community Enterprise projects have included Fair Food, which connects local family farms with urban markets, and SBN, which was spun off in 2006.

Fair Food Farmstand, a part of White Dog Community Enterprises, is located in Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market. It provides a venue for local (Southeastern PA and Southern NJ), small, family farmers to make their food available in the urban Philadelphia marketplace. Not only does this allow market-goers access to fresh, delicious food; it educates a broad swath of the public that files in and out of the market on a daily basis about the value of sustainable farming and living practices.

On my recent visit to the Fair Food Farmstand, I saw that each and every item is attributed to its source. Now I realize that this practice can become rather trite on restaurant menus to some, but it was heartening to see that within the small footprint of the stand, there was an abundnace of products ranging from red onions, to scorzonera (black salsify),  and heirloom red cranberries from Vincentown, NJ.  And raw milk! Yes, for you home cheese makers who would love to get your mitts on some raw cow juice! There’s no need for an underground milkyway in PA. as raw milk is legal: although the production and distribution of raw milk and raw milk products is not without impediments and controversy.

I was also pleased to see chevre from Apple Tree Goat Dairy in the refrigerator case. Those of you who frequent the Northern Virginia farmers markets, such as Del Ray and West Alexandria, know that Tom the Cheese Guy brings this wonderful cheese to us in season. It’s just one of the many artisan products showcased at this wonderful stand.

I do hope you have a chance to enjoy visiting the Fair Food Farmstand as much as I did, should you find yourself in Philadlephia! Their footprint may be small, but their mission is mighty.

Tags: travel, Philadelphia, farmers markets by Ramona
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 Termini Bros.has been a South Philadelphia baking institution since opening in 1928. Their tradition of Italian confections has made Termini’s a househould name to the Italian-Americans of South Philly, and well beyond the city limits. Known for making mouth-watering canolli, cookies, and pastries, Termini’s carries on the Italian tradtions passed down from generations of Italian immigrants.

 Termini’s canolli are considered the best there are by many, and one look at the photo above show just how fresh each canolli is made, with riccota filling piped inside to order. The filling  is a luscious foil for the crisp outer shell

. Among the pantheon of great Italian desserts is the sfogliatelle (SFOO-ya-dell, or SPOO-ya-dell are among the pronunciations), a shell-shaped pastry which is typically filled with orange scented ricotta, and sometimes has candied citrus and cinnamon added, as is the case with Termini’s version. Sfogliatelle originated in Naples, Italy and is said to have been perfected in convents and monasteries, as they are labor and time intensive to make.

Impossibly intricate, the sfogliatelle’s pastry shell is redundant with many, many layers of crisp crust that lightly shatters to the to bite. Sfogliatelle pastry is rolled very thin and slatherd with shortening. Then, the pastry is rolled so many layers are formed. Next, the roll is cut into what looks like rolled ribbons, and the center of the roll is pushed out, creating the point and many layers, as well as a pocket for filling. Once filled, the sfogliatelle are sealed and baked so that the many layers stay separated and become crisp. Kind of like a “crunchy” al dente!

During my stay in Philadelphia, I made a visit the famous Reading Terminal Market.RTM is a cornucopia of food, ranging from eateries reflecting cuisines from around the world, to fresh produce, baked goods, spices and of course, the good old favorites of Philadelphia; cheesesteaks, hoagies, and roast pork Italian sandwiches.

After being sated (if not stuffed) with an incredibly juicy roast pork with sharp provolone and brocolli rabe at DiNic’s Roast Beef & Pork lunch counter, I headed over to Termini Bros. to buy  dessert for later. I decided on the flaky clam shaped pastry just begging me to buy it! The sfogliatelle ($4.50) pictured above was fresh and heavy for its size, with flaky crust and dense ricotta filling. The semi-sweet nature of the pastry allows it to pair well with teas, or even espresso (with a shot of grappa, of course).

If you can’t buy excellent Italian pastries near you, you can either visit one of Termini Bros. locations in the Philadelphia area, or order from them online!

Tags: mail order, pastry, travel, dessert, Philadelphia by Ramona
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I hope your Holidays are delightful  and as stress-free as possible this year. Currently, Frank and I are in Philadelphia visiting family and  enjoying old and new foodie haunts. I thought I’d share with you some of the fun we’re having and give you some ideas in case you’re ever visiting the City of Brotherly Love.

On Saturday we made our way to Reading Terminal Market, a large indoor market in the heart of Center City Philadelphia. Locals and tourists alike keep the market bustling year round. The market is an amazing mixture of local vendors ranging from Amish foods and eateries, to cheesesteaks, hoagies, salumeries, cheese mongers, fish mongers, butchers and produce stands to name only a few. Despite this array of food we tend to gravitate towards one of our favorite sandwich shops is all the city- DiNic’s Roast Pork and Beef. The roast pork, or roast pork Italian sandwich has long been a city favorite, garnering as much praise and generating as much bickering as the beloved and widely-known Philadelphia Cheesesteak of Pat Oliveri lore.

Frank and I were fortunate to snag a couple seats at the counter and split a roast pork with sharp provolone and broccoli rabe. As usual, the sandwich was amazing especially since DiNic’s makes rabe regularly available now, not just spinach. Rabe rules, no doubt about it.  Satisfied that the sandwich would hold us over until a much anticipated dinner at Osteria, we strolled around RTM, gathering in the sights, sounds, smells and energy of the collective merchants and market-goers.

Across Market St. and two blocks up the street across from City Hall is Macy’s, or the old Wanamaker’s department store where a long standing Christmas tradition plays out several times a day around the Holiday. Passed from generation to generation is the experience of gathering by the Eagle in the 5 story center hall to see the Holiday Light Show. A 3 story wall of lights flickers and blinks in rhythm with the music which tells the stories of the Sugar Plum Fairies, Frosty the Snowman, Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer, Santa and the Nutcracker.

Having good karma at DiNic’s and catching the Light Show just in time left us feeling positive about our dinner that night at Osteria. We were right. Osteria is the newer restaurant from Mark Vetri, of Vetri. Vetri is one of the best restaurants in Philadelphia and probably one of the best Italian restaurants in the country. While Vetri is small, some 36 seats or so, Osteria is spacious and manages to marry a warehouse space with warm wood and deep colors making it altogether welcoming and enticing.

Our meal was superlative from our informative server to the silver service to our napkins being folded within seconds of our individual departures to the restrooms. While our main server explained the menu and took our order, the dishes were served and cleared by numerous staff who made themselves unobtrusive to ensure a sense of seamlessness throughout the meal.

We started with the Lombarda Pizza which had a yolky sunny side up egg and perfectly cooked thin crust which had just enough blister to let you know the pizzaiolo knows his way around Osteria’s wood-fired brick oven which cooks the pizza at a hellish 700 degrees. The in-house made cotechino sausage (sausage and all cured meats except the Proscuito are made in-house) was fragrant with cloves and nutmeg and played nicely on the palate against the bitto cheese. And the yolk-what’s to say? Creamy. Delicious. Perfect.

Our pizza was followed by sharing a lobster spaghetti- a whole lobster with meat removed and combined with al dente pasta in a light tomato sauce with is served over the lobster shell. This dish is large, more of an entree portion of American timber. Besides the perennial lobster special, we ordered a pork special- a young pig, marinated in brine and braised. Loin, shoulder and rib was portioned with yukon gold potatoes. The pig was intensely flavored with fennel and was very moist. It was one of those dishes which made me think to myself that I would have no idea how to pump this intensity of flavor into anything!

Despite being quite full, we decided to try a dolci and ordered the cranberry and hickory nut tart with zabaglione gelato (also made in-house). This was wonderful with tart cranberries and creamy gelato punctuated by the crunch of nuts. Cups of decaffeinated Miscela D’Oro coffee was strong and delicious.

All of this with 2 glasses of Prosecco came to around $130. I would highly recommend Osteria and am planning to return. One visit in simply not enough. Between the pizzas, antipastas, primis, secondis, contornos and dolcis, there seems to be infinite ways to configure an amazing meal at Osteria. Not to mention the daily specials, in particular the pastas.

Tags: Italian, Philadelphia, Restaurants, Markets by Ramona
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