The Houndstooth Gourmet

The Washington Post broke a big story last week. A big story by foodie standards, that is. It seems that one of G.W. Bush’s last acts as our President was to levy taxes on luxury food products which are produced by and exported from European Union Nations. The focus of the WaPo’s story was Roquefort cheese, which will be taking the brunt of shit-stick by receiving a 300% tariff–effectively banning it’s export to the U.S.

Roquefort is a small village of 600 people and is located in the south of France. Some 4500 people herd ewes on 2100 farms in and around the Larzac Plain. Their beloved product and staple of their economy joins French truffles and Italian sparkling water but has the special designation of being the only product with a 300% duty.

This measure, seemingly an afterthought (like who cares about the people in France?-we only pretend to like you) smacks of “the Ugly American”. Bullies, who ever thought and still think that the term “Freedom Fries” is pithy. It isn’t, and it never was. Hopefully we can protest in support of Roquefort cheese and France’s ability to export it to the U.S. fairly. Roquefort has already survived here with tremendous popularity, despite having a 100% duty. The earthy, blue-veined, creamy cheese it worth it.

Local cheese shop owner, Jill Erber, wrote a response on the website of her shop, Cheesetique. In it, Erber states”I was shocked and awed not by that cavalier attack on our broad free-trade liberties, but by the specific violation featured prominently on the front page (albeit below the fold): little old Roquefort is under attack! That sublime product of lactation, coagulation, and fermentation has always held a special place in my heart, despite its high price tag and limited availability. Not only do I have a particular affection for Roquefort, but so do Cheesetique’s discerning customers, who marvel at its romantic story of creation, rustic approach to production even today, and exclusive availability. Your love of raw milk Roquefort has made it a staple in many of my cheese classes and one of the most popular and consistent sellers at Cheesetique. Since opening our doors more than four years ago, we have never been without Roquefort Papillon (I prefer this brand above others, though we have also carried Carles, which is outstanding). We have sold hundreds of pounds of Roquefort despite its title as the most expensive cheese consistently carried at Cheesetique.”

Erber, in protest, is selling Roquefort at cost, for $20/lb. She predicts that its availability will be “only a matter of time”. The ban goes into effect mid-March.

As a foodie, I’m fighting back. I have signed petitions and will buy Roquefort until I can’t any longer. I know this is not high on our new President’s priority list, but I hope that President Obama will soon have an opportunity to remedy this ridiculous measure, and allow Americans to enjoy free trade-you know, that thing our founding fathers espoused. In the words of Ronald Reagan,  “Our trade policy rests firmly on the foundation of free and open markets. I recognize … the inescapable conclusion that all of history has taught: The freer the flow of world trade, the stronger the tides of human progress and peace among nations”

So, on to the recipe! I was inspired to make mussels with a white wine and Roquefort sauce, inspired by local chef and restaurant owner, Teddy Folkman. Folkman owns a popular neighborhood joint in D.C. called Granvile Moore’s. GM specializes in moules and frites, and Folkman actually appeared on Food Network’s Throwdown with Bobby Flay. His version of mussels with blue cheese blew the shells off of Flay’s dish, and he won, hands-down, according to the judges who happened to be local food blogger Jason Storch (DC Foodies) and his wife Amy.

Here’s the recipe, courtesy of Metrocurean and Teddy Folkman:

Chef Teddy Folkman’s Mussels from Throwdown! with Bobby Flay

1 pound rope grown PEI mussels
4 tablespoons blended oil (40 percent extra virgin olive oil, 60 percent canola)
1/3 cup applewood smoked bacon, diced
1/3 cup thin sliced shallots
1/4 cup Hook’s Blue Cheese, or a similar mild, creamy blue Roquefort
1/3 cup white wine, preferably a dry Chardonnay
juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup baby spinach, cleaned and destemmed
sea salt
black pepper

Heat oil in pan with bacon until bacon is rendered and is slightly browned. Add shallots and mussels and toss ingredients together. Add white wine and lemon juice and toss ingredients together.

When mussels start to open, add half of blue cheese, melting it into the broth. As soon as all mussels are open, toss in spinach. Season with sea salt and black pepper to taste.

Plate and top the mussels with the remainder of the blue cheese. Serve with a French baguette and frites.

Recipe courtesy of chef Teddy Folkman and Granville Moore’s.

Tags: cheese, Recipe, seafood by Ramona
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I don’t know about you , but I think I’ve been watching too many food competition shows. While making this dish using the peas from Green Lever Farm at the Kingstowne Farmers Market, I kept hearing Gordon Ramsey’s voice in my head, say “risahhhhhhhhtoe”.

“Ramona, is the risahto ready?” “C’mon now, you DONKEY!”

“Yes, Chef!”

Talk about your kitchen nightmares.

But, it wasn’t over yet. Next, I saw Tom Collichio’s dissappointed face because I was using frozen scallops *gasp*. You know, those mollusks from hell that Spike picked out of Rick Tramanto’s beautifully stocked walk-in? That transgression that Spike defiantly defended which led to the dreaded phrase-please pack your knives and go.

I had flop sweat and hadn’t even heated a pan yet.

I wonder if there is a 12-step program for food competition show addiction. I’ll look into it and let y’all know. Meanwhile, here’s a method for a delightful risotto that you can top with scallops, or shrimp, or anything you’d like. Use it as a main, or a side dish.

Parmesan Risotto with Peas and Scallops

serves 3-4

In a sauce pot, bring 5 cups chicken stock to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer.

In a pan, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medum heat. Add 1 small onion, diced, and saute for 4-5 minutes until transluscent. Add 1 1/2 cups arborio rice and saute for 1 minute. Increase heat to medium high and add 1 cup dry white wine and cook for 3-4 minutes, until alcohol cooks off and wine is reduced by 1/2. Reduce heat back down to medium. Add 1 cup of chicken stock and to the rice and simmer until most of the stock is absorbed. Repeat adding stock and cooking until the risotto is al dente, or still has a little bite to it. You may not need all 5 cups of chicken stock.

About halfway through cooking the rice, add 1 cup fresh peas.

Add 1 cup of good quality grated Parmesan cheese. Stir to incorporate. Add salt and pepper to taste.

While the rice is cooking, heat a pan (I recommend that you do not use non-stick) over  high heat. Add 2-3 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil just begins to smoke, add 12 large scallops which have been thoroughly dried, salt and peppered.

Allow scallops to caramelize and do not attempt to turn them over until they release themselves from the pan. Salt and pepper the top sides and flip. Cook on the other side until they caramelize and release.

Serve scallops over risotto immediately.

Tags: Recipe, rice, seafood by Ramona
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Currently residing in the old Bohio’s space is Hank’s Oyster Bar. This is Chef and owner Jamie Leed’s second location for her very popular Dupont Circle restaurant. I couldn’t be happier that she chose to cross the river and come to Alexandria. I hope this continues the fantastic food trend in Old Town with more talented chefs choosing to join the ranks of Cathal Armstrong and Morou.

Hank’s space is is long with clean lines and gentle yellow tones. There is a seating area in front, followed by the kitchen/prep area which leads to another dining area in back. They don’t take reservations but we were able to be seated immediately at 6:45 on a Friday night. Another hour later and the place was packed.

Nightly specials are listed on a large chalkboard. There were several types of oysters, fish and the “meat and two” of the day. The meat and two on Friday was a flat iron steak with a chimichuri sauce. Frank ordered this with Old Bay fries and roasted cauliflower. I chose the lobster bisque and the sablefish.

First, our water glasses were filled quickly without the old “sparkling, still or tap?” chestnut. If I want bottled water, I’ll ask for it. Meanwhile please assume that plain old tap water will quench my thirst. Next came a bread basket with a small ramekin of butter. Soft butter, another thing I truly appreciate. Our bread stayed on the table throughout our  meal, which was lovely since I used the bread to mop up the lobster bisque. Ah, the bisque was a big thumbs up for me. The lobster stock was made hearty with a smokey tomato base. It was thick, pleasing and held at least one large claw full of lobster meat.

On to our mains, Frank’s flat iron steak was cooked perfectly to medium rare as ordered. The steak was tender and beefy (I know that sounds funny, but some cuts have very little flavor). The chimichuri sauce was verdant and punched up nicely with lemon. Old Bay fries were a bit on the thin side and some suffered from languishing in the heat a bit too long. Thin fries have to be made a la minute and served immediately. If cut a bit thicker ,the fries would be just fine. Roasted cauliflower was cooked perfectly and seasoned with curry, which complimented the nutty flavor that cauliflower acquires when roasted.

My sabefish was a large fillet with a soy balsamic glaze. It was served over lightly dressed watercress and which sat on a drizzled balsamic reduction. The sablefish was moist and velvety with a mild fish flavor. Overall, a great dish but I would suggest adding a side or two if no appetizer is ordered. At $19, it doesn’t hurt too much to add a bit more and round out the meal. And you might as well go for it, because Hank’s does not do dessert. “Desserts in a glass” are offered if you want an after dinner drink, however. Not that you’ll leave without your sweet tooth sated. Hank’s treats diners with large chunks of bitter-sweet chocolate after your dinner or with a cup of cappuccino. There’s always a fried snickers bar down King St. at Eamonn’s.

Service was pleasant and timely. I’m looking forward to returning because that lobster roll is calling my name. Welcome to the neighborhood, Hank’s. I hope you stay a good long while.

OLD TOWN ALEXANDRIA
1026 King St, Alexandria, VA 22314
T 703.739.HANK (4265) – F 703.739.7788 OLDTOWN@HANKSRESTAURANTS.COM
GET DIRECTIONS – MAP IT

OPEN
Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM
Dinner Tuesday-Friday 5:30 PM – 10:00 PM
Saturday, open all day for a la carte brunch starting at
12 Noon and dinner until 11:00pm
Sunday, open all day for a la carte starting at
12 Noon and dinner until 9:00 pm

Tags: Alexandria, Restaurants, seafood, Virginia by Ramona
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