The Houndstooth Gourmet

It was bound to happen-this is D.C. after all. Summer’s perfunctory heatwave turned what had been July’s pleasant warm days into August’s sweltering, swamp-like soup. Forget sultry, as the character Harry Goldenblatt said on Sex in the City, I was “schvitzing like a pudding at a picnic” this weekend. And that was before 10 a.m. While the heat can be oppresive, the produce is at its best. While market patrons filled the aisles (and oh yes, gotta love those strollers at Dupont), the producer’s tables were brimming with vegetables, fruits and herbs.

The abundance was remarkable.Now. Now is when farmers markets are at their best. Yes, I adore them year round, but summer’s heat draws out sweat, as well as every bit of color, flavor and juice in just about every product that grows to fruition at this time of year.

Bell peppers come in a plethora of colors, corn-whether white, yellow, or both, is sweet with plump kernels, tomatoes of all shapes and sizes actually taste like tomatoes, and vivid flowers lend a  outward sign on the table that this short, fleeting time of year will all too soon yield to Fall leaves and pumpkins. When even now, stores are carrying Halloween gear. Yikes! You know you have to seize the opportunity. Carpe Produce!

At the 14th & U St. farmers market, I snagged a box of cipollini onions from Kuhn’s Orchard (perhaps one of most beautiful stalls to walk in). Cippolini’s are small, sweet, rather flat, disc-like onions that happen to be wonderful when roasted. Here’s my method for preparing them: I peeled the onions, put them on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet,  and gave them a little dousing of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and s+p. Then, the onions roasted in the oven at 350 for about 45 minutes, getting turned once or twice. The onions became tender, and the balsamic thickened as it coated each onion. This is terrific on warm or cold salads, or as a part of an antipasti platter-just pop them in your mouth. You won’t believe how sweet they are!

At The Copper Pot Food Company, Stefano Frigerio has recovered from an earlier loss of many, many jars of sauce, and featured several varieties, including Virgini’s Blended, and Smokey Bacon tomato sauces. I paired the former with his veal osso-bucco tortellini. Stefano’s sauces are clean, simple, and not overwhelmed by flavors that obfuscate the fact that these are tomato sauces. The veal osso bucco tortellini-guess how good that was? So good, that we used our Panorama baguette to mop up every bit from the bottom of the bowl.

Panorama’s sticky buns continue to be a weakness of Frank’s and mine. We split one every time we go to the market. Each bun is perfectly sticky (you’d best have a Wet-Nap with you) on the outside, and yeasty on the inside. We also bought a baguette for future use with a tomato and peach jam that I’ll post about tomorrow for WaPo Wednesdays.

Knowing that I needed a handfull of tomatoes for the jam, we drove back to Alexandria via the Del Ray market, where I was hoping to get my ‘maters from the “seconds” bin at Toigo Orchards.  Fortunately, they did have them at $.99 per pound- about a third of the price that most producers were fetching. I recommend you look for “seconds” bins for tomatoes-especially if you need bulk. The only caveat is that generally, you will want to use your tomatoes very soon, as they tend to be bruised and in imminent danger of skin poppage. Is that a word? Poppage? Anyway, they can go south quickly, so use them up as soon as you can.

Lastly, Sunday I visited the Dupont Farmers Market, where as I remarked earlier, was what I like to call the “two-s’s”. Sticky, and strollers. I have nothing against strollers, but movement is key to trying to keep cool on the asphalt with little to no air circulation. There should be HOS lanes at Dupont-High Occupance Strollers!!  Even the shade afforded by some of the producer’s tents offered little relief from macadum-driven heat. I was tempted to pick up Dolcezza’s ice-filled tub and douse myself with it in a Miles-from-Sideways-fashion-being fueled by heat stroke instead of mid-life angst. I didn’t, but I thought about it.Yeah, so you won’t catch me living South of the Border anytime soon, but you can expect me to give you more updates in the next, At The Market. Until then, eat and buy local when you can. Enjoy the slide show-just clicky on the right arrow!

Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer

Tags: Alexandria, District of Columbia, farmers markets, Washington by Ramona
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This point in the farm market season is probably the most exciting and rewarding to me. I think the bright colors of fruits, vegetables and produce, combined with the shear abundance everything leaves me amazed at what is produced in our region, and how hard people work to bring their bounty to us.

Crowds were thick at the Dupont Farmers Market on Sunday ,while an overcast sky which threatened rain (that did not come) may have led to decreased patrons at the Alexandria West End Market at Ben Brenman Park. At both markets, table after table held cherries and zucchini in seemingly unending rows, while cauliflower was stacked high, and green beans of all kinds were piled deep. Gerbera daisies held blooms upon blooms in saturated hues which popped like technicolor TV back in the day. One of my favorite vendors, Westmoreland Berry Farm, had a table of berries and cherries that looked like a box of Crayola Crayons-I didn’t know which color to pick! I settled for a box of black and a box of red raspberries. Oh, and a word to the wise-refrigerate those berries (in a single layer if possible) immediately as mold grows on them in no time. I wasted most of my precious berries, unfortunately. I won’t make the same mistake next time.

After purchasing Romano/Italian green beans and squash (from a farm in Westmoreland County, VA) and quenching our thirst with quick glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, Frank and I left the Alexandria market and headed into D. C. to the Dupont Market. The Chef at Market on this very busy morning was Will Artley of Evening Star Cafe. Apropos of the typical heat this time of year, Chef Artley wisely showcased his skills by preparing a cold appetizer of Red Apron pepper-crusted beef carpaccio and [sea] salt, blue cheese, strawberry balsamic vinaigrette, tomatoes and greens. It was heaven on a fork, and I will be keeping this dish on file for future use. In fact, here’s the recipe for the vinaigrette if you’re interested, or if you enjoyed a forkful yourself last Sunday:

Strawberry Balsamic Vinaigrette (Chef Will Artley, Evening Star Cafe)

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 3/4 cup olive oil
• 1 cup of fresh local strawberries
• 1 tablespoons honey

Directions

1.  Begin by blending the vinegar, salt, pepper, garlic, strawberries andhoney. Once the mixture is smooth, add oil very slowly (while whisking).

2. Chill and serve with a market salad

To assemble the salad, mix your preferred greens and cheese (any blue cheese would work perfectly). Top with sliced tomatoes and beef carpaccio. Toss with vinaigrette.

 Enjoy the slide show, and until the next At The Market, eat and buy local when you can.

Tags: Alexandria, District of Columbia, farmers markets, Washington by Ramona
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Saturday was my first visit to the 14th & U St. Farmers Market in Washington, DC.  First, getting there from Alexandria, VA was a breeze early on a Saturday morning, and parking on U St. was easy-and free! I arrived just before the 9 a.m. bell in order to check out the vendors, most of which are new to me.

Let’s see. There was Panorama Baking Co., which interestingly,  is from Alexandria, VA. They have a large selection of breads and pastries. If you go, do check out the sticky buns, or you can lick the buns in the pictobrowser window. Really- up close and in person is better!  Now, I love sticky buns; I grew up eating them as they were ubiquitous in the bakeries of Philadelphia, so I think I’ve got a pretty good idea when I find an outstanding one. And I did! Each bun is about half the size of my head, and easily shared by two. And when I say share, I mean that I ate most of the gooey, nut and raisin-laden top, and Frank got the rest. Hey, your have to go for the gusto, right? But seriously, from top to bottom, it was delicious.

Speaking of delicious, I got to chat with Stefano Frigerio of the newly formed The Copper Pot Food Company. From the pastas to the sauces to the imaginative jams, Stefano’s products are accessible and tangible evidence of his talent in the kitchen. The former Senior Sous Chef at Maestro, turned Executive Chef at Mio, is beginning a new chapter in his career, and market-goers like me are reaping the benefits. I will of course let you know how his food tastes, too! I hope to shortly enjoy my purchases, from the pastas; Braised Rabbit Ravioli with  butter sage sauce (to be made my me at home), and Parma ham and Parmesan Tortellini, to the sauces; Smokey Bacon and Parmesan, and Blended Late-Harvest Tomato.

The only stand that I noted having the first of this year’s strawberries was Garner’s Produce, located in Warsaw, VA. Located within a few miles of another favorite, Three Way Farm (which sells at the Del Ray market and others), Garner’s produce was fresh and affordably priced. They also had a large selection of vegetable plants and flowers. I availed myself of a pint of large strawberries, resisted the temptation to eat them right away, then macerated them once home. Once sweetened up a bit more and nicely softened, the strawberries became a delicious topping and nice foil for homemade buttermilk ice cream (which is so darn easy to make: I’ll share it soon!)

In the pictobrowser, you’ll also see Keswick Creamery-a familiar sight at many area markets. Their yogurt is very good, and quite a bargain at about $4.50 per quart. That, along with toppings such as fruit and granola, keeps me eating a healthy breakfast all week.

Of course, there are more wonderful vendors at this friendly and cheerful market (dogs too!). You can see a full list of participants at the 14 & U St. Farmers Market website, and you can count on more At The Market reports from me. Until the next time, eat and buy local when you can.

Tags: District of Columbia, farmers markets, Washington by Ramona
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Saturday morning was a wet mess, with near constant rain, sometimes driving and hard. I was determined to get my lazy ass to the markets, particularly in light of Saturday being the official opening day for the Del Ray market. Unfortunately, Frank and I decided to pass Del Ray and head to Courthouse because Del Ray’s corner parking lot was woefully underpopulated with vendors. Maybe it was the rain, or perhaps some didn’t get the memo, but we decided for the first time in a very long time, we would make our way to the Courthouse market instead, and I’m glad we did.

At Courthouse, white tents were huddled together in solidarity against the conspiring elements. Packed into the relatively small footprint of the market macadam, we found a surprisingly light atmosphere where vendors exuded enthusiasm in hopes that it would catch on and draw patron to booth-and it did. The mushroom lady was hawking her morels like there was no tomorrow, giving copious advice on taste, preparation and cooking methods. “Buy the cream from him”, she said pointing to Blue Ridge Dairy, two stalls away. “I always finish the dish with his cream”, she added, as I wondered if she would be going home with some free cream at the end of the morning. “Ah, maybe we should have gotten the cream too”, I said to Frank about our purchase from Blue Ridge Dairy at the Alexandria market not even an hour earlier. We had already bought Greek yogurt and fresh mozzarella from Blue Ridge, and decided to stay on budge. Although you can’t swing a long-tailed cat without hitting an ATM machine, I would finish my morel dish with the half and half already in my fridge at home.

Not that we didn’t do our part to stimulate the local economy vis a vis the markets this weekend. After a soggy start on Saturday, we decided to go to the Dupont market on Sunday, a glorious Easter Sunday, where I knew a spit-roasted lamb was being served by Zatinya (as part the the Chef at Market series) around 11 a.m. I was not dissappointed. Generous portions of sliced lamb was finished with chunky salt and finished with drizzled olive oil and offered to patrons as they walked the market (and then clamoured back for more). The lamb was melt-in-your-mouth-tender, and I believe it is available all week as a special at Zatinya. For those of you who work in the area, treat yourself to a lamb sandwich even if you have to take it back and eat it at your desk. You will not be dissappointed!

Now, to update you on what’s new at the markets, aside from my perennial favorites such as Calhoun’s Country Ham and anything dairy from Blue Ridge Dairy and Keswick Creamery, that is.

Ramps (aka: wild leeks) are plentiful and run about $4-$5 a bunch. I bought 2 bunches from Bigg Riggs (W. VA) at the Alexandria market. Each generous bunch had about 2 dozens ramps. Buy them sooner rather than later, as their strength really intensifies as they grow larger, and you WILL have the odor eminating from your pores when they do.  The mushroom ladies at Courthouse and Dupont had morels, both large and small, for $20 a box. Ouch, I know, but I splurge once or twice in season. Plus I was excited to get home and make my Braise Chicken Thighs in a White Wine and Morel Cream Sauce (I’m excited to add here that this recipe has been selected to be include in Patricia O’Neil’s next cookbook, Tables Across America). Asparagus should be at the markets in a week or two. I did spy bundles of asparagus at the Old Town market, but was as wary of them as I was the strawberries. Not. Local.

Sunshine or rain, I enjoyed the markets this weekend. So, until the next At The Market, eat and buy local when you can.

Tags: Alexandria, farmers markets, Washington by Ramona
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E., a friend and market volunteer confirmed my estimation that the market opened to a large crowd last Sunday, despite the clouds and threat of storms.  “I counted 400 heads at the opening bell”, she said. It’s spring, and the crowds are returning rain or shine. There were fewer empty spaces between the vendors who line the street and bank parking lot. Under white tents, bright yellow daffodils and tall, sculptural clippings of peach blossoms and forsythia popped with color, and the promise of blooms. Market patrons fell into line in front of their favorite vendors to get the first pick of produce.

“The Farm at Sunnyside has frise and escarole, did you get some?”, E. asked me. I hadn’t, but the thought of using TFAS’s escarole in a wedding soup that I made last year had me yearning to make it again. I could almost smell the tiny meatballs cooking in my home as I made my way to their stand. Alas, the frise and escarole were already gone. It was a bit of a disappointment, but there is no shortage of inspiration for farm to fork food at the Dupont Market.

Take Next Step Produce, typically anchored by the owner, Heinz. Heinz is a font of helpful information when it comes to storing and preparing his bountiful produce. Erba stella, a salty, crisp salad green, caught my eye as well as “vitamin green”, a leafy vegetable that “tastes like mustard greens” according to Heinz. Large bags of fresh cress also had me thinking of salads, and a bumper crop of sunchokes was so plentiful that I didn’t feel bad taking 2 containers! I roasted the sunchokes* in the oven as soon as I got home, and made a creamy sunchoke soup with thyme and smoked ham. Truly, I recommend just simply roasting them-they taste like a sweeter, nuttier version of roasted fingerling potatoes.

Keswick Creamery’s stand draws folks like bees to honey, with generous samples of just about everything they make, including cheese, yogurt, quark and blue suede moo cheese dip. Melanie, the lovely owner, told Frank and me that no, we didn’t miss buying her eggs because we arrived a few minutes after the opening bell. Rather, she had just transferred her chickens to another location and the hens had not been out and about to scratch yet. She won’t sell her eggs unless they’ve truly been able to get out and roam. Her integrity results in some of the tastiest, richly orange eggs that’ I’ve found in the area. While I wait another week to purchase Melanie’s eggs, I’ll enjoy her yogurt, topped with berries, cherries and honey.

Very soon, ramps, morels and asparagus will appear. I can’t wait.

Until the next At The Market, eat and buy local when you can.

*Jerusalem artichokes are not from Jerusalem, nor are they artichokes. Discuss.

Tags: District of Columbia, farmers markets, Washington by Ramona
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