At The 14th & U St., Del Ray And Dupont Farmers Market-August 15 & 16, 2009

 

It was bound to happen-this is D.C. after all. Summer’s perfunctory heatwave turned what had been July’s pleasant warm days into August’s sweltering, swamp-like soup. Forget sultry, as the character Harry Goldenblatt said on Sex in the City, I was “schvitzing like a pudding at a picnic” this weekend. And that was before 10 a.m. While the heat can be oppresive, the produce is at its best. While market patrons filled the aisles (and oh yes, gotta love those strollers at Dupont), the producer’s tables were brimming with vegetables, fruits and herbs.

The abundance was remarkable.Now. Now is when farmers markets are at their best. Yes, I adore them year round, but summer’s heat draws out sweat, as well as every bit of color, flavor and juice in just about every product that grows to fruition at this time of year.

 

Bell peppers come in a plethora of colors, corn-whether white, yellow, or both, is sweet with plump kernels, tomatoes of all shapes and sizes actually taste like tomatoes, and vivid flowers lend a  outward sign on the table that this short, fleeting time of year will all too soon yield to Fall leaves and pumpkins. When even now, stores are carrying Halloween gear. Yikes! You know you have to seize the opportunity. Carpe Produce!

 

At the 14th & U St. farmers market, I snagged a box of cipollini onions from Kuhn’s Orchard (perhaps one of most beautiful stalls to walk in). Cippolini’s are small, sweet, rather flat, disc-like onions that happen to be wonderful when roasted. Here’s my method for preparing them: I peeled the onions, put them on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet,  and gave them a little dousing of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and s+p. Then, the onions roasted in the oven at 350 for about 45 minutes, getting turned once or twice. The onions became tender, and the balsamic thickened as it coated each onion. This is terrific on warm or cold salads, or as a part of an antipasti platter-just pop them in your mouth. You won’t believe how sweet they are!

At The Copper Pot Food Company, Stefano Frigerio has recovered from an earlier loss of many, many jars of sauce, and featured several varieties, including Virgini’s Blended, and Smokey Bacon tomato sauces. I paired the former with his veal osso-bucco tortellini. Stefano’s sauces are clean, simple, and not overwhelmed by flavors that obfuscate the fact that these are tomato sauces. The veal osso bucco tortellini-guess how good that was? So good, that we used our Panorama baguette to mop up every bit from the bottom of the bowl.

 

Panorama’s sticky buns continue to be a weakness of Frank’s and mine. We split one every time we go to the market. Each bun is perfectly sticky (you’d best have a Wet-Nap with you) on the outside, and yeasty on the inside. We also bought a baguette for future use with a tomato and peach jam that I’ll post about tomorrow for WaPo Wednesdays.

 

Knowing that I needed a handfull of tomatoes for the jam, we drove back to Alexandria via the Del Ray market, where I was hoping to get my ‘maters from the “seconds” bin at Toigo Orchards.  Fortunately, they did have them at $.99 per pound- about a third of the price that most producers were fetching. I recommend you look for “seconds” bins for tomatoes-especially if you need bulk. The only caveat is that generally, you will want to use your tomatoes very soon, as they tend to be bruised and in imminent danger of skin poppage. Is that a word? Poppage? Anyway, they can go south quickly, so use them up as soon as you can.

 

Lastly, Sunday I visited the Dupont Farmers Market, where as I remarked earlier, was what I like to call the “two-s’s”. Sticky, and strollers. I have nothing against strollers, but movement is key to trying to keep cool on the asphalt with little to no air circulation. There should be HOS lanes at Dupont-High Occupance Strollers!!  Even the shade afforded by some of the producer’s tents offered little relief from macadum-driven heat. I was tempted to pick up Dolcezza’s ice-filled tub and douse myself with it in a Miles-from-Sideways-fashion-being fueled by heat stroke instead of mid-life angst. I didn’t, but I thought about it.Yeah, so you won’t catch me living South of the Border anytime soon, but you can expect me to give you more updates in the next, At The Market. Until then, eat and buy local when you can. Enjoy the slide show-just clicky on the right arrow!

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WaPo Wednesdays- Peach and Raspberry Clafouti

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Clafouti-that delightful French pancake that makes berries and stone fruit shine. Making a good one has been elusive for me. I believe I was first inspired to make clafouti several years ago when watchig Sara Moulton on Sara’s Secrets. You know-back when the Food Network was a television station that could really teach and inspire. Ah, those were the days. Anyway, I soon made my first clafouti. Cherry, I believe. I was impressed that, first, I made something French, and second, that it was easy and really delicious.

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Come to think of it, I’m not sure whose recipe I used the first time I made a clafouti. I only know that the second, third and probably fourth time I made it, it didn’t turn out well. My clafoutis were either dry, or very egg-y. I’m talking like eating a sweet omelette or scrambled eggs. Not good. Blech.

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Now flash forward to last week’s WaPo Food section, with as you may know, I am seeking inspiration and guidance by making at least one recipe a week, and posting it. Last week, the WaPo featured blogger and cookbook author, David Lebovitz. The “American Blogger in Paris” cooks in his small apartment by the Bastille. While the mere thought of living in Paris, writing a pithy blog and memoir, and cooking, cooking, cooking turns my complexion green with envy, Lebovitz dismisses the notion that his life is all beret-wearing, sidewalk cafe-coffee-sipping and Sartre contemplating while watching star-crossed lovers stroll the avenues. No, there’s dog poop on those streets, and you had better watch your step.

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And, like the roads in Paris, you occasionally have to dodge bad recipies, and just plain bad days in the kitchen. Oh, the gritty underbelly.  Sometimes, however, you have a good day, your ingredients shine, and you can’t wait to share what you’ve made or what you’ve discovered. This is such a day. Lebovitz’s clafouti is a perfect intersection of custard and cake. It revels in the oven- getting a bit crunchy on top from caramelizing sugar, while the fruit underneath yields juice and nectar into the egg, butter and flour.While stone fruits and berries are in season, I highly recommend taking the heat while you turn on the oven to bake up this wonderful dessert. Clafouti is easy, yet elegant. You’ll be impressed-and so will your friends. Share!P.S….don’t be afraid to make this in the colder months, as frozen fruit would work just fine.

Apricot* and Raspberry ClafoutiRecipe adapted from David Lebovitz’s The Sweet Life in Paris, courtesy of The Washington PostServes 8**Ingredients:
    • • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the baking dish
    • • 1 pound ripe apricots, pitted and cut into 3/4 inch wedges (may substitute small ripe plums, cut in half and pitted)
    • • 1 cup raspberries, washed
    • • 3 large eggs
    • • 1/2 cup flour
    • • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
    • • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
    • • 1 1/3 cups whole milk***

Directions:Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven; preheat to 375 degrees.Use butter to liberally grease the bottom and sides of a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Arrange the apricot wedges (cut sides up) and the raspberries in a single layer on the bottom of the dish. Whisk the eggs in a mixing bowl until smooth, then whisk in the 4 tablespoons of melted butter and the flour until completely smooth. Add the vanilla, then whisk in 1/2 cup of the sugar and the milk to form a custard. Pour the custard over the fruit. Bake on the top rack for 30 minutes, then pull out the rack gently, so the crust that is just beginning to form on the claflouti remains intact. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar evenly over the surface, then gently return the rack to its position. Bake the claflouti for 30 minutes, or until it feels slightly firm in the center and its top is a nice golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature.**I used peaches from Toigo Orchards. To prepare-briefly blanch in boiling water, and peel skin. Cut in half, remove pit, and slice.** I used a 10 inch non-stick skillet, and felt the serving recommendation was more like 6 generous slices. If you use a casserole dish, simply scoop the clafouti out.*** I did not have whole/4% milk on hand, so I used half 1% milk and half heavy cream for the 1 1/3 cups milk called for in the recipe. Perhaps this contributed to the incredible creamy custard that resulted.

WaPo Wednesdays- Peaches and Cream with Raspberries

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Hi folks-here’s the recipe that I chose from last week’s Washington Post Food section. It’ Peaches and Cream with Raspberries- a variation on peach melba which they paired with frozen yogurt. I had French Vanilla ice cream on hand, plus some frozen local blackberries, but the basics are the same for making the peach sauce.

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What did I think? Well, first, it’s delicious. Really. But while I made it, with my oven on for over 45 minutes, I thought that I could certainly make this sauce on the stove top in a fraction of the time. In the heat of summer-that’s would I would recommend. Simply place all of the ingredients into a sauce pan, and simmer with the lid on for about 10 minutes, until the peaches are completely softened and macerated. Then, uncover the pot, and continue to cook until the liquid is reduced a bit to concentrate the flavors. Finally, blend with a stick blender or stand blender. Serve warm, or cool over frozen yogurt, regular yogurt, or ice cream.

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Another tip-I did not have orange liquour around, and in lieu of almond extract, I used a passion fruit vinegar. Yes, vinegar! Now, I know you may not have this type of vinegar (I just had to get this bottle at Di Bruno Bros. in Philadelphia), but keep this idea in mind if you are making any type of berry sauce-balsamic vinegar brings out the best in the flavor-and sweetness!

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Taste-I give this sauce a 4/5.  Truly, you could get good canned peaches from the farmers market (Toigo, Quaker Valley) at any time of year, heat them up with spices and flavorings, and blend to make a sauce. Peach Melba sauce compliments ice cream quite well.

Would I entertain with this?- You bet I would- especially because this sauce can be make ahead of time. It looks homemade, and it adds great dimension to store-bought ice cream (I’m also thinking pound cake!. Plus, it’s easy.

Sources- I purchased my peaches from Bigg Riggs Farm (West Virginia) at the Alexandria Farmers Market.

Peaches and Cream with Raspberries

Recipe courtesy of The Washington Post

6 servings

Ingredients:

6 (about 2 pounds) peaches (preferably freestone), peeled, pitted and cut into quarters; see NOTE
1/4 cup light or dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons or 3 orange-flavored liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
3 cups low-fat vanilla frozen yogurt
1/2 pint raspberries

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have ready a shallow baking dish (about 8 by 11 inches).

Arrange the peach quarters with cut sides up in a single layer in the baking dish, then scatter the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt over them. Add the water to the dish, then cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove the foil and return the dish to the oven. Bake for about 10 minutes or until the liquid in the dish has reduced to a syrup.

Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes, then transfer the peaches and syrup to a blender and process until smooth. Add 2 tablespoons of the liqueur and blend to incorporate. Taste and add the remaining tablespoon of liqueur as needed.

The sauce can be served warm or refrigerated until ready to use. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Divide the frozen yogurt equally among individual serving bowls. Top each with about 1/4 cup of the sauce and divide the raspberries evenly among the portions. Serve immediately.

NOTE: To peel the peaches, start with ripe fruit. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the whole peaches and parboil for 30 to 60 seconds. Remove from the water, rinse with cold water and peel away the skins.

At The Old Town Alexandria Farmers Market-August 1, 2009

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As much as I enjoy seeing seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs in abundance-I adore finding a good surprise or two at the market. Take this refreshing gazpacho, blended up with market-fresh ingredients from vendors just steps away. That’s what the chef de cuisine from DC’s Hay Adams Hotel was making under a tent tucked away toward the back of the square.

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It was nice to see a “Chef at Market”, although I’m not sure that’s what the Alexandria Farmers Market is calling it-I just hope the market keeps it up because they were giving people lots of great inspiration for ways to use what’s for sale . Another fun find- huckleberries. Did you know that huckleberries are the state fruit of Idaho? Who knew? I bought about a pint or more for $2.50. I’m thinking of making a panna cotta with them. I have gelatin and am ready to give it a go!

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But first, I’m making a variation on peach melba over ice cream-made with peaches from Bigg Riggs farm in West Virginia. By the way, if you find yourself at Bigg Riggs stand (they are also at the Upper King Street Market on Wednesday afternoons), treat yourself to a bunch of tomatillos. You can simply roast them with some onions, toss with a jalepeno pepper, a bunch of cilantro (go ahead and use the stems too), season and blend with a touch of evoo to make an easy salsa verde!

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Stay tuned for the peaches on WaPo Wednesday, and until the next At The Market, eat and buy local when you can.

WaPo Wednesdays- Shrimp and Mussels in a Coconut-Lime Broth

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Each Wednesday, I look forward to receiving my daily Washington Post newspaper for the Food section. It is chock-a-block-full of recipes, restaurant tidbits and mini-reviews, tips on libations and wine and more. Much of the time, I am drawn to the recipes and photos, but instead of cutting and saving recipes, the Food section gets stacked back with the rest of the paper, and winds up in the recycle bin. I think that there is a lot to discover and learn from putting the information in the Food section to work for me, so I’m going to try my best to test out at least one recipe or tip from the section each week. My first foray into this venture was making this delicious Thai seafood dish which is very close to Tom Kha Talay soup. In fact, the recipe suggests that you can use Asian noodles in the dish to help fortify it.

Like many seafood dishes, the more attention that you pay to prepping the ingredients, the faster and easier the dish will be put together and on your table to enjoy. Shrimp and mussels are very easy to cook, but you must carefully prepare the shrimp by cleaning and deveining them. The mussels must be carefully looked over for any obviously cracked, broken or expired specimens-look carefully at each mussel to ensure each one is intact, and closed. If a mussel is open, gently tap the shell to see if it closes. If it does not close, toss it. Conversely, once you’ve cooked your mussels, they should open up. Any mussels that remains closed should be discarded and not eaten. Further, try to do your best to source your seafood from a good seafood monger or store. Buy fresh seafood, and don’t be afraid to ask where exactly the seafood is from, and when it arrived. I prefer smaller mussels-PEI (Prince Edward Island) to be specific. In my experience, they are sweeter. In addition, they are rope-grown, and therefore, less prone to sandy grit (still, thoroughly wash and debeard each mussel). For the shrimp, I like medium to large size, ranging from about 15-25 count size. I think they are meatier, and easier to prepare-there’s just less to deal with when you buy a larger size.

This dish is subtly complex-the lemongrass and orange peel are soothing and aromatic. The chili pepper, which I suggest you do not shy away from, plays nicely against the coconut milk which acts to temper the creeping heat. I also adore the combination of coconut milk and cilantro-especially when the fresh cilantro gently wilts from the heat of the soup. The aroma is fantastic. A nice handful of chopped cilantro on top just before serving gives a fresh pop of flavor. If cilantro tastes like soap to you, try this dish without it and perhaps add fresh chopped parsley just before serving for a verdant kick. I would also add that using mussels (increase the volume as needed) alone without the shrimp would work just as well, and save prep time and money (as mussels are generally very cheap).

Difficulty-In terms of ease of preparation and degree of difficulty, I would rate this recipe a 2.5/5. You will have to roll up your sleeves to get the ingredients ready to go, but once you have, you are well on your way.

Taste- rates a 4/5- I think that adding noodles (as suggested) would make this dish even better. Or, get yourself a really wonderful crusty bread to sop up the broth. Conversely, use a soup spoon to get the remains of the aromatic broth. Heck, just pick the bowl up to your mouth and tip it!

Would I entertain with this dish?-Definitely. I especially appreciate how the ingredients can be prepped ahead of time, and put together rather quickly. This dish would serve as a shared appetizer, or as a main with the noodles added.

Sources (other than pantry items):

Lemongrass, coconut milk, peppers, ginger-Giant supermarket

Mussels, shrimp, chili sauce, vegetable broth (organic)-Whole Foods (Old Town Alexandria). I’m not pleased that I have to convey that I was not satisfied with the quality of the mussels and shrimp from WF, Alexandria. On two separate occasions, bags of Maine mussels yielded many broken and dead mussels. The shrimp tasted of iodine. I mention this as a footnote to pass along my experience, and separate this from the dish itself. I have had better experiences with ingredients from Slavin’s, and plan to make this dish again with PEI mussels and follow my own advice on determining the provinence and freshness of the ingredients prior to purchasing.

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Mussels and Shrimp in a Coconut-Lime Broth

 

recipe courtesy of the Washington Post 

4 to 6 servings

Ingredients:

    • 5 medium cloves garlic
    • 2-inch piece ginger root
    • 1 or 2 serrano chili peppers
    • 2 medium red or orange bell peppers
    • 1 medium red onion
    • 1 stalk lemon grass, tough outer leaves discarded
    • 2 pounds mussels
    • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin coconut oil (optional; may substitute extra-virgin olive oil)
    • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
    • Fine sea salt
    • 20 large raw shrimp (about 1 1/4 pounds)
    • 2 medium limes
    • 1 medium orange
    • 3 scallions
    • 14 ounces coconut milk (may use low-fat)
    • 3 cups organic vegetable broth
    • Leaves from 8 sprigs cilantro
    • Sweet chili sauce or toasted sesame oil, for serving (optional)

Directions:

 Peel the garlic, then cut it into very thin slices. Peel the ginger, then it into very thin slices. Stem and seed the serrano peppers, then mince. Cut away the flesh from the bell peppers and cut it into small dice. Cut the onion into small dice. Cut the lemon grass into 2 equal pieces, then use the wide blade of a chef’s knife to smash each piece.Rinse and drain the mussels; discard any whose shells are broken or damaged.Combine the coconut oil, if using, and the olive oil in a medium soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, ginger, chili pepper to taste, bell peppers and onion, stirring to coat evenly. Reduce the heat to medium (the sizzle should quiet down) and cook for about 6 minutes, until the onion and bell peppers just start to soften. Season lightly with salt.While the vegetables are cooking, peel and devein the shrimp. Juice the limes (to yield 1/4 to 1/3 cup). Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest (in large strips; no white pith) from the orange. Cut the white and light-green parts of the scallions crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces.Add the coconut milk, vegetable broth, lime juice, strips of orange peel and smashed lemon grass to the pot. Increase the heat to medium-high; stir to mix well. Once the mixture comes to a boil, add the mussels and scallions. Cover and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until the mussels have opened.While the mussels are cooking, coarsely chop the cilantro leaves (if desired, or leave whole).Add the shrimp to the pot, making sure they are completely submerged in the liquid. Cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until they become opaque. Uncover and remove from the heat. Discard any mussels that have not opened. If desired, discard the strips of orange peel and the lemon grass.To serve, ladle equal portions of the soup among wide, shallow individual bowls, dividing the mussels and shrimp among the portions. Sprinkle cilantro on top; if desired, lightly drizzle with sweet chili sauce or toasted sesame oil. Serve hot.